Best of
Food-Writing

2019

Anthony Bourdain Remembered


CNN - 2019
    The tributes spoke to his legacy: That the world is much smaller than we imagine and people are more alike than they are different. As Bourdain had once said, “If I’m an advocate of anything, it’s to move…Walk in someone else’s shoes or at least eat their food.”Remembering Anthony Bourdain brings together memories and stories from fans reminiscing about Bourdain’s unique achievements and his enduring effect on their lives as well as comments from chefs, journalists, filmmakers, musicians, and writers inspired by Tony including Barack Obama, Daniel Boulud, Jill Filipovic, Ken Burns, Questlove, and José Andrés, among many others.These remembrances give us a glimpse of Tony’s widespread impact through his political and social commitments; his dedication to travel and eating well (and widely); and his love of the written word, along with his deep compassion, open-mindedness, and interest in lives different from his own.Remembering Anthony Bourdain captures Tony’s inimitable spirit and passion in the words of his closest friends and colleagues as well as some of his most devoted fans.

Save Me the Plums: My Gourmet Memoir


Ruth Reichl - 2019
    Now, for the first time, she chronicles her groundbreaking tenure as editor in chief of Gourmet, during which she spearheaded a revolution in the way we think about food.When Condé Nast offered Ruth Reichl the top position at America's oldest epicurean magazine, she declined. She was a writer, not a manager, and had no inclination to be anyone's boss. And yet . . . Reichl had been reading Gourmet since she was eight; it had inspired her career. How could she say no?This is the story of a former Berkeley hippie entering the corporate world and worrying about losing her soul. It is the story of the moment restaurants became an important part of popular culture, a time when the rise of the farm-to-table movement changed, forever, the way we eat. Readers will meet legendary chefs like David Chang and Eric Ripert, idiosyncratic writers like David Foster Wallace, and a colorful group of editors and art directors who, under Reichl's leadership, transformed stately Gourmet into a cutting-edge publication. This was the golden age of print media—the last spendthrift gasp before the Internet turned the magazine world upside down.Complete with recipes, Save Me the Plums is a personal journey of a woman coming to terms with being in charge and making a mark, following a passion and holding on to her dreams—even when she ends up in a place she never expected to be.

The Best American Food Writing 2019 (The Best American Series ®)


Samin Nosrat - 2019
    “Good food writing evokes the senses,” writes Samin Nosrat, best-selling author of Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat and star of the Netflix adaptation of the book. “It makes us consider divergent viewpoints. It makes us hungry and motivates us to go out into the world in search of new experiences. It charms and angers us, breaks our hearts, and gives us hope. And perhaps most importantly, it creates empathy within us.” Whether it’s the dizzying array of Kit Kats in Japan, a reclamation of the queer history of tapas, or a spotlight on a day in the life of a restaurant inspector, the work in The Best American Food Writing 2019 will inspire you to pick up a knife and start chopping, but also to think critically about what you’re eating and how it came to your plate, while still leaving you clamoring for seconds.

Vignette: Stories Of Life And Wine In 100 Bottles


Jane Lopes - 2019
    Sometimes we want to learn more about that wine. And sometimes we want to feel something about wine.In Vignette, sommelier Jane Lopes recommends the 100 bottles of wine (and some spirits and beers) to best expand your wine journey, giving you a complete palate education of the important styles, grapes, regions, and flavors of this magical and ever-growing world. Alongside that, you will find imaginative ways to engage with the foundational wine knowledge that underpins a good drinking experience. And then there is Jane's own narrative – the stories of triumph and defeat that comprise her life in wine. It's part memoir and part wine book, but a lot more fun than either alone.These are wines to live with, learn from and take solace in – a joyous, surprising, and revelatory response to that age-old question, "What should I drink?"

Cider Revival: Dispatches from the Orchard


Jason Wilson - 2019
    Drank by early settlers and founding fathers, it was ubiquitous and pervasive, but following Prohibition when orchards were destroyed and neglected, cider all but disappeared. In The Cider Revival, Jason Wilson chronicles what is happening now, an extraordinary rebirth that is less than a decade old. Following the seasons through the autumn harvest, winter fermentation, spring bottling, and summer festival and orchard work, Wilson travels around New York and New England, with forays to the Midwest, the West Coast, and Europe. He meets the new heroes of cider: orchardists who are rediscovering long lost apple varieties, cider makers who have the attention to craftsmanship of natural wine makers, and beverage professionals who see cider as poised to explode in popularity. What emerges is a deeply rewarding story, an exploration of cider’s identity and future, and its cultural and environmental significance. A blend of history and travelogue, The Cider Revival is a toast to a complex drink.

Gumbo Life: Tales from the Roux Bayou


Ken Wells - 2019
    What is it about gumbo that continues to delight and nourish so many? And what explains its spread around the world?A seasoned journalist, Ken Wells sleuths out the answers. His obsession goes back to his childhood in the Cajun bastion of Bayou Black, where his French-speaking mother’s gumbo often began with a chicken chased down in the yard. Back then, gumbo was a humble soup little known beyond the boundaries of Louisiana. So when a homesick young Ken, at college in Missouri, realized there wasn’t a restaurant that could satisfy his gumbo cravings, he called his momma for the recipe. That phone-taught gumbo was a disaster. The second, cooked at his mother’s side, fueled a lifelong quest to explore gumbo’s roots and mysteries.In Gumbo Life: Tales from the Roux Bayou, Wells does just that. He spends time with octogenarian chefs who turn the lowly coot into gourmet gumbo; joins a team at a highly competitive gumbo contest; visits a factory that churns out gumbo by the ton; observes the gumbo-making rituals of an iconic New Orleans restaurant where high-end Creole cooking and Cajun cuisine first merged.Gumbo Life, rendered in Wells’ affable prose, makes clear that gumbo is more than simply a delicious dish: it’s an attitude, a way of seeing the world. For all who read its pages, this is a tasty culinary memoir—to be enjoyed and shared like a simmering pot of gumbo.

Expat Sofra: Culinary Tales of Foreign Women in Turkey


Katherine Belliel - 2019
    Welcome to Expat Sofra.From the USA, the UK, the Netherlands, Poland, Australia, Canada, Ireland, Italy, and South Africa foreign women arrived in Turkey, were encouraged to eat, and tell their stories. Part cookbook, part foodoir, part travelogue, this anthology with intimate stories, delectable photos and appetizing recipes takes you directly into the Turkish kitchen by expats who earned a place there. A feast for the eyes, heart, soul, and stomach all in one. With Turkey at the crossroads between East and West, this book offers a different perspective using the medium of personal anecdotes, photos, and recipes to bridge a gap over common misconceptions. To experience and savor a unique place with parts Europe, Asia, and the Middle East, challenging stereotypes through honest portrayals in raw form. Locals too, curious of outside perceptions of their rich gastronomic heritage, can find common ground within these pages. Stories of obstacles, journeys, homesickness, adventure and adaptation. Funny, poignant, courageous, and flavorful these culinary tales satisfy all tastes. Armchair travelers, tourists, foodies, culinary artists, and expats, will all find a place at our table. Afiyet Olsun.American writer Katherine Belliel and Italian chef Francesca Rosa have a combined 25 years of experience of being nourished by Turkish hospitality. They set the table for cultural interactions between expats and Turkish culture through the use of food, art, and words. Expat Sofra is at the collective heart of what they do.

Uncultivated: Wild Apples, Real Cider, and the Complicated Art of Making a Living


Andy Brennan - 2019
    It was about cider"--Eric Asimov, New York Times, on UncultivatedToday, food is being reconsidered. It's a front-and-center topic in everything from politics to art, from science to economics. We know now that leaving food to government and industry specialists was one of the twentieth century's greatest mistakes. The question is where do we go from here. Author Andy Brennan describes uncultivation as a process: It involves exploring the wild; recognizing that much of nature is omitted from our conventional ways of seeing and doing things (our cultivations); and realizing the advantages to embracing what we've somehow forgotten or ignored. For most of us this process can be difficult, like swimming against the strong current of our modern culture. The hero of this book is the wild apple. Uncultivated follows Brennan's twenty-four-year history with naturalized trees and shows how they have guided him toward successes in agriculture, in the art of cider making, and in creating a small-farm business. The book contains useful information relevant to those particular fields, but is designed to connect the wild to a far greater audience, skillfully blending cultural criticism with a food activist's agenda. Apples rank among the most manipulated crops in the world, because not only do farmers want perfect fruit, they also assume the health of the tree depends on human intervention. Yet wild trees live all around us, and left to their own devices, they achieve different forms of success that modernity fails to apprehend. Andy Brennan learned of the health and taste advantages of such trees, and by emulating nature in his orchard (and in his cider) he has also enjoyed environmental and financial benefits. None of this would be possible by following today's prevailing winds of apple cultivation. In all fields, our cultural perspective is limited by a parallel proclivity. It's not just agriculture: we all must fight tendencies toward specialization, efficiency, linear thought, and predetermined growth. We have cultivated those tendencies at the exclusion of nature's full range. If Uncultivated is about faith in nature, and the power it has to deliver us from our own mistakes, then wild apple trees have already shown us the way.

Cedar & Salt: Vancouver Island Recipes from Forest, Farm, Field, and Sea


DL Acken - 2019
    Vancouver Island’s temperate climate nurtures a bounty of wild foods, heritage grains, organic produce, sustainable meats and artisan-crafted edible delights. This thoughtfully curated, beautifully photographed contemporary cookbook brings Vancouver Island’s abundant food scene into the kitchens of home cooks everywhere.Whether it’s fresh blackberries, foraged chanterelles and fiddleheads, freshly harvested spot prawns or oysters, line-caught spring salmon, grass-fed beef, or cultivated foods like heritage red fife wheat, these recipes highlight the most sought-after ingredients on the island while honouring the producers and artisans dedicated to sustainable and ethical producing and harvesting.Try recipes like Craft Beer–Braised Island Beef Brisket, Nettle and Chèvre Ravioli, and Beetroot and Black Walnut Cake featuring Denman Island Chocolate. Divided into four sections—forest, field, farm, and sea—Cedar and Salt places the most excellent local ingredients on a pedestal—and then onto your plate.

Baltic: New and Old Recipes from Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania


Simon Bajada - 2019
    Bringing the Baltic's answer to New Nordic to your kitchen, nearly seventy recipes celebrate this wholesome, creative and intensely seasonal cuisine. As well, stunning photography captures the colour and vibrancy of the produce, culture and landscapes as these unique countries reconnect with the past and embrace new promise for the future.

Life on the Other Border: Farmworkers and Food Justice in Vermont


Teresa M. Mares - 2019
    Mares explores the intersections of structural vulnerability and food insecurity experienced by migrant farmworkers in the northeastern borderlands of the United States. Through ethnographic portraits of Latinx farmworkers who labor in Vermont’s dairy industry, Mares powerfully illuminates the complex and resilient ways workers sustain themselves and their families while also serving as the backbone of the state’s agricultural economy. In doing so, Life on the Other Border exposes how broader movements for food justice and labor rights play out in the agricultural sector, and powerfully points to the misaligned agriculture and immigration policies impacting our food system today.

Pardiz: A Persian Food Journey


Manuela Darling-Gansser - 2019
    Having lived in Iran for the first nine years of her life, she returned as an adult to reconnect with the country she remembered so fondly. This book is a celebration of that time; a compilation of memories, stories and beautiful recipes that underline the depth and broad appeal of this great and enduring food culture. In Pardiz, what Darling-Gansser does is show how seamlessly Persian food fits with trends of today: flourishing food markets; the primacy of local ingredients; the health-giving aspects of vegetable-centric dishes; and the joys of a shared table. The latter is a theme in her book – and in her life.In her choice of recipes, she gives a sense of the diversity of Persian food – whether it is served in a restaurant, eaten at home, prepared for a picnic, or enjoyed on the street, the setting can determine what is served. Ultimately, she focuses on recipes that are not too complicated or time consuming – recognising the great virtue that is simplicity. And encouraging readers to embrace the sociability that goes with the food as much as the food itself.

Feeding the Other: Whiteness, Privilege, and Neoliberal Stigma in Food Pantries


Rebecca T. de Souza - 2019
    Food pantries--run by charitable and faith-based organizations--rather than legal entitlements have become a cornerstone of the government's efforts to end hunger. In Feeding the Other, Rebecca de Souza argues that food pantries stigmatize their clients through a discourse that emphasizes hard work, self help, and economic productivity rather than food justice and equity. De Souza describes this "framing, blaming, and shaming" as "neoliberal stigma" that recasts the structural issue of hunger as a problem for the individual hungry person.De Souza shows how neoliberal stigma plays out in practice through a comparative case analysis of two food pantries in Duluth, Minnesota. Doing so, she documents the seldom-acknowledged voices, experiences, and realities of people living with hunger. She describes the failure of public institutions to protect citizens from poverty and hunger; the white privilege of pantry volunteers caught between neoliberal narratives and social justice concerns; the evangelical conviction that food assistance should be "a hand up, not a handout"; the culture of suspicion in food pantry spaces; and the constraints on food choice. It is only by rejecting the neoliberal narrative and giving voice to the hungry rather than the privileged, de Souza argues, that food pantries can become agents of food justice.

Sour: More Than Mere Taste: the Magical Element that Transforms Your Cooking


Mark Diacono - 2019
    From cheese to vinegar, throughout the centuries we have deliberately let – and even encouraged – food to go sour to enhance its flavor. Sour foods have never been more fashionable, with the spotlight falling on foodstuffs as disparate as Belgian sour beer and Korean kimchi. But what is it that makes sourness such an enticing, complex element of the eating experience? And what are the best ways to harness sour flavors in your own kitchen?Mark Diacono sets out to demystify the sour world, and explore why everyone's extolling the virtues of kombucha and fermenting for their digestive health. By grappling with gooseberries and turning his hand to sourdough, experimenting with ultra-cool shrub cocktails, and making his own yogurt, keffir and pickles, Mark tells the story of what makes things sour, and offers recipes that maximize the transformative power of this amazing taste.

A South You Never Ate: Savoring Flavors and Stories from the Eastern Shore of Virginia


Bernard L. Herman - 2019
    In this inviting narrative, Bernard L. Herman welcomes readers into the communities, stories, and flavors that season a land where the distance from tide to tide is often less than five miles. Blending personal observation, history, memories of harvests and feasts, and recipes, Herman tells of life along the Eastern Shore through the eyes of its growers, watermen, oyster and clam farmers, foragers, church cooks, restaurant owners, and everyday residents. Four centuries of encounter, imagination, and invention continue to shape the foodways of the Eastern Shore of Virginia, melding influences from Indigenous peoples, European migrants, enslaved and free West Africans, and more recent newcomers. Herman reveals how local ingredients and the cooks who have prepared them for the table have developed a distinctly American terroir--the flavors of a place experienced through its culinary and storytelling traditions. This terroir flourishes even as it confronts challenges from climate change, declining fish populations, and farming monoculture. Herman reveals this resilience through the recipes and celebrations that hold meaning, not just for those who live there but for all those folks who sit at their tables--and other tables near and far.

Just the Tonic: A Natural History of Tonic Water


Kim Walker - 2019
    Its roots go back centuries, starting with the Andes and the cinchona tree, and it had its start as a natural medicine instead of as a tasty mixer. Quinine, tonic water’s signature ingredient, was once used to treat Malaria and is still used by some to soothe leg cramps. From the Quechua people and Spanish colonists, to French chemists and British officers, the journey from botanical discovery to cocktail staple is a fascinating story.Just the Tonic is an accessible yet informative history of tonic water, written by leading experts from the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew—which is home to one of the largest collections in the world of historic cinchona. It takes us through the discovery and development of quinine and its eventual meeting with sparkling water. It also introduces us to the basic botany and development of the cinchona tree. The iconic gin and tonic cocktail is not forgotten in these pages. The authors look at the changing role of the drink, tracing the rise and fall, and rise again, of cocktails straight from officers’ messes of British India, the art deco cocktail bars of the 1920s, through to the Mad Men era and the recent resurgence of gin as a drink of choice. A final chapter on cocktail recipes provides instructions on how to make delicious alcoholic and nonalcoholic drinks using an array of different tonics and spirits. Mixed into the book are reproductions of stunning historical artwork, posters, and photographs. This is the first authoritative book on the history and role of tonic water, making it the perfect addition to both bookshelves and bar carts. The book won the Fortnum & Mason Food & Drink awards 2020 for Debut Drink Book.

Bhagwaan ke Pakwaan


Varud Gupta - 2019
    There are legends and lore, angsty perspectives, tangential anecdotes, a couple of life lessons and a whole lot of food.

Recipes for Respect: African American Meals and Meaning


Rafia Zafar - 2019
    In the academy, scholarship on food and literary culture constitutes a growing river within literary and cultural studies, but writing on African American food and dining remains a tributary. Recipes for Respect bridges this gap, illuminating the role of foodways in African American culture as well as the contributions of Black cooks and chefs to what has been considered the mainstream.Beginning in the early nineteenth century and continuing nearly to the present day, African Americans have often been stereotyped as illiterate kitchen geniuses. Rafia Zafar addresses this error, highlighting the long history of accomplished African Americans within our culinary traditions, as well as the literary and entrepreneurial strategies for civil rights and respectability woven into the written records of dining, cooking, and serving. Whether revealed in cookbooks or fiction, memoirs or hotel-keeping manuals, agricultural extension bulletins or library collections, foodways knowledge sustained Black strategies for self-reliance and dignity, the preservation of historical memory, and civil rights and social mobility. If, to follow Mary Douglas's dictum, food is a field of action--that is, a venue for social intimacy, exchange, or aggression--African American writing about foodways constitutes an underappreciated critique of the racialized social and intellectual spaces of the United States.

Tokyo for Food Lovers


Jonas Cramby - 2019
    Author Jonas Cramby says, 'Writing a restaurant guide to Tokyo seems close to an impossible task. Tokyo, as it happens, is not simply the best food city in the world, it is also the largest. The city is thought to contain more than 150,000 restaurants, which makes even the 10,000 catering establishments of New York by comparison seem like the regional center of a small and sleepy town. It has the best raw produce, the most brilliant chefs and the highest number of Michelin stars in the world. Tokyo is a city in which extreme care and concern for detail is not the sole preserve of fine dining – it exists everywhere. The city is packed with simple, fun, cheap and, above all, fabulously good eateries and this book is my highly personal guide to these places.' Organised into chapters for different types of food experiences, this guide includes many great photos and interviews with local chefs. It will help you to locate the finest kitchens and food stores on offer, decipher menus and rules of etiquette, and advise you on first-class dining close to wherever you are in the city.

Drink Better Beer: Discover the Secrets of the Brewing Experts


Joshua M. Bernstein - 2019
    Winner of the Gourmand Award in the Beer category (US).   With thousands of breweries creating a dizzying array of beers each year, learning from the experts is practically a necessity for the modern beer lover. Luckily, beer guru Joshua M. Bernstein is here to tap  their wisdom for you, with sage advice about which brews to buy, how to taste your suds, and what to eat with them. Drink Better Beer features the must-know insights of more than 100 professionals, including competition judges, beer consultants, and master brewers. Find out how to shop clever by heeding two simple rules. Learn the art of selecting the right glass, cleaning it, and executing the perfect pour. Make sense of all those aromas with just a couple of sniffing tricks. Unlock the taste secrets of different styles, learn when to drink and how to know if your favorite beer store is treating their beer the way they should. Beer is getting complicated—Drink Better Beer will give you the confidence to buy smart and enjoy your pour even more.

Mercados: Recipes from the Markets of Mexico


David Sterling - 2019
    Just as David Sterling’s Yucatán earned him praise for his “meticulously researched knowledge” (Saveur) and for producing “a labor of love that well documents place, people and, yes, food” (Booklist), Mercados now invites readers to learn about local ingredients, meet vendors and cooks, and taste dishes that reflect Mexico’s distinctive regional cuisine.Serving up more than one hundred recipes, Mercados presents unique versions of Oaxaca’s legendary moles and Michoacan’s carnitas, as well as little-known specialties such as the charcuterie of Chiapas, the wild anise of Pátzcuaro, and the seafood soups of Veracruz. Sumptuous color photographs transport us to the enormous forty-acre, 10,000-merchant Central de Abastos in Oaxaca as well as tiny tianguises in Tabasco. Blending immersive research and passionate appreciation, David Sterling’s final opus is at once a must-have cookbook and a literary feast for the gastronome.

A Parent's Guide to Intuitive Eating: How to Raise Kids Who Love to Eat Healthy


Dr. Yami Cazorla-Lancaster - 2019
    It offers a system that builds healthy habits and better mindsets that will last a lifetime. Through the techniques and tips in this book, you’ll discover how to eliminate stress, anxiety and food battles and instead enjoy feeding your confident eater!Written by a board-certified pediatrician and mom, this book will set your family up for success when it comes to making decisions in the kitchen, grocery store, and restaurant. The actionable advice in A Parent’s Guide to Intuitive Eating will transform healthy eating from a chore into a happy habit!

Tales Of The Tea Trade: The Secret To Sourcing And Enjoying Tea For The Modern Drinker


Michelle and Rob Comins - 2019
    Taking the reader on a fascinating journey directly into the lives of those who plant, pluck and process tea; going beyond the standard story of leaf to cup. This book encourages the reader to think of and buy tea in much the same way they do coffee and fine wines. Tales of the Tea Trade looks at the world of tea from a completely new perspective. Taking the reader on a fascinating journey directly into the lives of those who plant, pluck and process tea; going beyond the standard story of leaf to cup; this book offers readers a unique first-hand insight into the culture, ceremony, opportunities and threats surrounding an ancient art. Closer to home, Michelle and Rob Comins offer their perspectives on how Eastern tea rituals can find a place in our increasingly busy Western lives. Beyond this, the book explores the key ingredients that separate a ‘good’ from a ‘great’ tea, covers ethical sourcing and shows how readers can translate and recreate tea ceremonies at home.Chapters include The Story of Tea, The Tea Plant, The Main Types of Tea, The International Tea Industry, Tea and Health and Time for Tea. This book stands alone in addressing tea from multiple expert perspectives, from tea farmers to ceramacists. Through sharing the stories and insights others have shared with them Michelle and Rob Comins hope to connect the reader with the world of tea and excite them to think of and buy tea in much the same way they do coffee and fine wine, making loose leaf tea a simple, everyday pleasure.

Messy Eating: Conversations on Animals as Food


Samantha KingMatthew R. Calarco - 2019
    Representing an initial step toward bridging this divide, Messy Eating features interviews with thirteen prominent and emerging scholars about the connections between their academic work and their approach to consuming animals as food. The collection explores how authors working across a range of perspectives—postcolonial, Indigenous, black, queer, trans, feminist, disability, poststructuralist, posthumanist, and multispecies—weave their theoretical and political orientations with daily, intimate, and visceral practices of food consumption, preparation, and ingestion. Each chapter introduces a scholar for whom the tangled, contradictory character of human–animal relations raises difficult questions about what they eat. Representing a departure from canonical animal rights literature, most authors featured in the collection do not make their food politics or identities explicit in their published work. While some interviewees practice vegetarianism or veganism, and almost all decry the role of industrialized animal agriculture in the environmental crisis, the contributors tend to reject a priori ethical codes and politics grounded in purity, surety, or simplicity. Remarkably free of proscriptions, but attentive to the Eurocentric tendencies of posthumanist animal studies, Messy Eating reveals how dietary habits are unpredictable and dynamic, shaped but not determined by life histories, educational trajectories, disciplinary homes, activist experiences, and intimate relationships. These accessible and engaging conversations offer rare and often surprising insights into pressing social issues through a focus on the mundane—and messy— interactions that constitute the professional, the political, and the personal. Contributors: Neel Ahuja, Billy-Ray Belcourt, Matthew Calarco, Lauren Corman, Naisargi Dave, Maneesha Deckha, María Elena García, Sharon Holland, Kelly Struthers Montford, H. Peter Steeves, Kim TallBear, Sunaura Taylor, Harlan Weaver, Kari Weil, Cary Wolfe