Best of
Mountaineering

2009

Beyond the Mountain


Steve House - 2009
    It means learning the hard lessons the mountains teach.Reinhold Messner calls Steve House the best high=altitude climber in the world today, an honor he declines. "Being called the 'best,'" says Steve, "makes me very uncomfortable. My intention is to be as good as I can be. Mountaineering is too complex to be squeezed into a competition. It is simply not something that lends itself to comparison. Climbing is about process, not achievement. The moment your mind wanders away from the task of the climbing-at-hand will be the moment you fail."Steve House built his reputation on ascents throughout the Alps, Canada, Alaska, the Karakoram and the Himalaya that have expanded possibilities of style, speed, and difficulty. In 2005 Steve and alpinist Vince Anderson pioneered a direct new route on the Rupal Face of 26,600-foot Nanga Parbat, which had never before been climbed in alpine style. It was the third ascent of the face and the achievement earned Steve and Vince the first Piolet d"or (Golden Ice Axe) awarded to North Americans.Steve is an accomplished and spellbinding storyteller in the tradition of Maurice Herzog and Lionel Terray. Beyond the Mountain is a gripping read destined to be a mountain classic. And it addresses many issues common to nonclimbing life -- mentorship, trust, failure success, goal setting, heroes, partnership -- as well as the mountaineer's heightened experience of risk and the deaths of friends. Beyond the Mountain is a window into the process of a man working to be the best he can be.

Cairngorm John: A Life in Mountain Rescue


John Allen - 2009
    In 'Cairngorm John' he recalls the challenges of mountain rescue & the many changes he has both witnessed & been a party to.

Early Days in the Range of Light: Encounters with Legendary Mountaineers


Daniel Arnold - 2009
    Gore-Tex shells and aluminum climbing gear are a century away, but the high mountains still demand your attention. Imagine the stone in your hands and thousands of feet of open air below you, with only a wool jacket to weather a storm and no rope to catch a fall.Daniel Arnold did more than imagine — he spent three years retracing the steps of his climbing forefathers, and in Early Days in the Range of Light, he tells their riveting stories. From 1864 to 1931, the Sierra Nevada witnessed some of the most audacious climbing of all time. In the spirit of his predecessors, Arnold carried only rudimentary equipment — no ropes, no harness, no specialized climbing shoes. Sometimes he left his backpack and sleeping bag behind as well, and, like John Muir, traveled for days with only a few pounds of food rolled into a sack slung over his shoulder.In an artful blend of history, biography, nature, and adventure writing, Arnold brings to life the journeys and the terrain traveled. In the process he uncovers the motivations that drove an extraordinary group of individuals to risk so much for airy summits and close contact with bare stone and snow.

UNEXPECTED: 30 Years of Patagonia Catalog Photography


Jane Sievert - 2009
    Relive the achievements captured in Patagonia’s history, as well as the joie de vivre fostered by nurturing a relationship with the great outdoors.Unique for a business enterprise, Patagonia’s catalog devotes fully half its space to nonselling editorial content – to environmental and sport essays and above all to extraordinary photographs of wild places and active pursuits for which the company makes its clothes. Since 1980, Patagonia has invited customers and wilderness photographers to submit their best, most unexpected shots of life outdoors – of alpine climbing, bouldering in the desert, skiing untracked bowls, surfing secret spots, ocean crossings, first kayak descents and travel in unfamiliar places. The photos have poured in ever since (current rate: 60,000 per year), some from the famous (John Russell, Galen Rowell), others from respected photographers (Corey Rich) who had their first work published in these pages. Jane Sievert and Jennifer Ridgeway, Patagonia’s current and founding photo editor, respectively, have been calling – and culling – the shots for three decades. This is their compendium of the 100-plus most compelling photos Patagonia has published – and a celebration of wilderness and outdoor-sport photography as an art and a practice.

Via Ferratas of the Italian Dolomites: Vol 1: North, Central and East


John Smith - 2009
    Part of a 2-volume set, it covers the northern, central and eastern regions, including Cortina, Fassa, Sesto, Canazei and Corvara. Routes are graded by technical difficulty and seriousness and there are comprehensive route descriptions accompanied by access notes, maps and topos. Stunning photography completes this inspirational guide to some of the most breathtaking via ferrata routes in the world.The Italian Dolomites boast some of the most magnificent mountain scenery on the planet and some of the most iconic. Soaring rocky spires and jagged ridgelines are interspersed with gentle valleys and idyllic mountain villages. The Dolomites are also home to the world's greatest concentration of via ferratas - mountain routes or climbs that are protected by a series of cables, metal rungs, pegs and ladders.

Mount Everest - Only the sky above


Helga Hengge - 2009
    In her inspiring account she takes her readers on an adventure through Tibet and up to the summit of Mount Everest offering authentic insights into the dynamics of tackling the ultimate challenge. Accompanied by spectacular images of her two-month long ascent she shares her story of pushing physical and emotional boundaries and the secrets of her success. New York Fashion Stylist Helga Hengge isn't your classic mountain woman. So when she decided to climb Mount Everest, no one expected her to make the history books. Finally, after six weeks of waiting, of hiking up and down between 17,000 and 26,000 feet to help our bodies acclimatize to the altitude, the day of our summit bid had arrived. The weather forecasted for May 27th, 1999, was clear skies — a long-anticipated window between storms. Although it was nearly midnight here at Camp 4, 27,200 feet above sea level, the full moon made it look like morning. The orange down cocoons next to me had begun to stir, and I could hear the Sherpas slurping soup in the silence. The top of my sleeping bag was crusted with snow crystals. I took off my oxygen mask and got dressed in bed, careful not to overlook anything: two layers of fleece, down pants, down jacket, summit socks, heat liners in my boots and gloves; sunblock and glasses in one pocket, water bottle with hot tea in another; cough drops, crackers, goggles and tissues in my pack.To stand on top of the world, to look down over its curve with no higher place to go — it was a vision I'd had in dreams for years. I just never expected I'd climb to the top of Everest and get to see it myself. I'm not exactly your classic mountain woman. I was born in the U.S. to German parents, and although I grew up in Munich, I work in New York City as a fashion stylist for magazines, including this one. The most physical aspect of my job is carrying huge trunks of clothing to and from photo shoots. I like to jog and hike to keep in shape, but I've never been particularly adventurous, either. When I read Into Thin Air, Jon Krakauer's 1996 bestseller, I thought everyone in the book was nuts. A huge storm had swept the mountain and killed eight people. The survivors lost noses, fingers and toes to frostbite. Not bad, considering the odds: One of every 10 people who summit fails to make it down alive. Why would anyone do something so obviously self-destructive? In truth, I did have an inkling. When I was a little girl, my grandparents would spend two months a year climbing in the Himalayas — in places such as Butan, Pakistan, Nepal and the tiny kingdom of Mustang, where they were the first Germans to ever set foot. Once a year, they would invite us to watch a slide show of their travels. My grandmother, who had rugged, tanned skin covered with freckles from her weeks spent outdoors, served my mother, my five siblings and me tea. My grandfather worked the projector as we sat on pillows and stared at the wall. There, pagodas glowed golden in the sunset, colorful prayer flags fluttered in the wind and snowcapped mountain peaks towered like waves on a stormy ocean. I was transfixed. One year, however, my grandfather almost died when he tumbled partway down a couloir before his fixed rope could stop him. My mother was so scared by his accident that even when my siblings and I were older and my grandparents had died, she was still reluctant to let us climb anything higher than the mountains surrounding Munich. Helga Hengge, who has dual citizenship, was the first German woman to successfully summit Everest and the first American woman to do so from the North side.

Colorado Scrambles: Climbs Beyond the Beaten Path, 2nd Edition


Dave Cooper - 2009
    Author Dave Cooper (Colorado Snow Climbs) climbed each of these high-quality routes, selecting them based on challenge, rock quality, location and interesting route finding. In scrambling, climbers use both hands and feet to get up a mountain, using a rope, if at all, only to protect short sections. Other than a rope and a little hardware, all a climber needs is a good pair of boots, a daypack, and foul-weather gear. In technical terms, scrambling is moving over 3rd- and 4th-class rock, often with a considerable amount of exposure.

Navigation for Walkers: The Definitive Guide to Map Reading


Julian Tippett - 2009
    Profusely illustrated in colour with 50 linked pairs of landscape photographs together with their exact map extract alongside. If you are at all apprehensive about taking the first steps exploring the countryside around you, then 'Navigation for Walkers' will certainly start you on the right path to aquiring the skills to navigate and complete any walk in Britain. Only with a good understanding of maps and by using them correctly can any walker truly experience the quiet exhilaration and freedom of walking centuries old paths, bridle and green lanes which make up the thousands of miles of public rights of way that criss-cross Britain's uniquely beautiful and often remote open countryside. Based on the Ordnance Survey's new Explorer maps, as well as the Outdoor Leisure and Landranger series, this book takes the reader step by step through the essential techniques of map reading, navigation skills, reading the compass and route planning. Julian Tippett has fifty years experience of route finding by map in the hills and moors of Britain; he teaches navigation skills and advises both the Ramblers' Association and the National Navigation Award Scheme.