Best of
Mountaineering

2000

Facing Up: A Remarkable Journey to the Summit of Mount Everest


Bear Grylls - 2000
    We were treading on virgin territory on the ever-changing surface of the glacier. The excitement welled up, and I felt strong. Here I was with those I knew so well, alone and isolated in the rawness and wonder of nature; and it made me feel good." Facing Up tells the remarkable story of Bear Grylls' ascent of Everest, making him, at the age of 23, the youngest British climber to survive the adventure. Bear is at sometimes quirky and at others reflexive in his account of his months on Everest. "Nobody minds pain occasionally, but the prospect of being at my wit's end for the next two months terrifies me". Bear battles against all the odds in the pursuit of his childhood dream--to stand on the summit of the world. Somewhat akin to an emotional roller coaster, Bear shares his elation and his despair, from standing on the summit, to swinging precariously in a crevasse in the Icefall. We are witness to the loss off hope being swept aside by grim determination and a restored faith; the pain and discomfort are quashed by his spirit, sense of humour and eccentricity. Written in an amazingly personable style, incorporating extracts from his diary and select photos from his expedition, Facing Up takes you every extraordinary step of the way. This book is a must for climbers and adventurers everywhere; a remarkable tale.

Snow in the Kingdom: My Storm Years on Everest


Ed Webster - 2000
    A milestone in American mountaineering literature, Snow in the Kingdom will appeal to climbers and "armchair climbers" alike. It's an adventure story penned in the tradition of the great explorers; a seminal document on modern lightweight, ethical Himalayan climbing; and a deeply personal account of one man's search for redemption and achievement while pioneering an uncharted route up Everest's most dangerous side. An astounding 150 pages of vivid color photographs -- over 450 photographs in all -- add depth and beauty to the compelling narrative. Webster attempted Everest from three sides: the West, North, and East, from both Nepal and Tibet. Webster soloed Everest's north peak, Changtse, then pioneered a new route up the 12,000-foot precipices of Mount Everest's Kangshung Face in Tibet, with a 4-man team and without bottled oxygen, radios, or Sherpa support. Also included are the unpublished 1921 and 1924 Everest photographs of the legendary British pioneers George Mallory and Noel Odell, plus the never-before-told story of Tenzing Norgay's birthplace and boyhood home in Moyun Village, Tibet -- and the astounding assertion that in 1921, Mallory and Tenzing met one another in Tibet.

Wildest Dream: The Biography of George Mallory


Peter L. Gillman - 2000
    Yet behind the headlines, investigative journalists Peter and Leni Gillman sensed there was far more to the story than whether Mallory had reached the top. How did Mallory reconcile his deep love for his wife and children with his dream of Everest? Why did he make his final attempt when he knew the odds were stacked against him?The Wildest Dream is an intimate portrait of a man torn between competing desires - and the fatal choice he ultimately made. Drawing on newly discovered documents and letters, and aided by members of Mallory's family, the Gillmans bare the heart and soul of the man behind the myth.--From the 2000 paperback edition.

Nanda Devi: Exploration and Ascent: A Compilation of the Two Mountain-Exploration Books, Nanda Devi and the Ascent of Nanda Devi


Eric Shipton - 2000
    16-page photo insert.

Pushing The Limits: The Story of Canadian Mountaineering


Chic Scott - 2000
    Tami Knight, Illustrator/MountaineerThis important new book tells the story of Canada's 200-year mountaineering history. Through the use of stories and pictures, Chic Scott documents the evolution of climbing in Canada. He introduces us to the early mountain pioneers and the modern day climbing athletes; he takes us to the crags and the gyms, from the west coast to Québec, and from the Yukon to the Rockies. But most importantly, Scott showcases Canadian climbers-the routes that challenged them, the peaks that inspired them, their insatiable desire to climber harder, to push the limits.Begin the trek through Canada's climbing history Learn about Swiss guides hired by CPR hotels who ushered in the glory years of first ascents. Continue through to the turn of the twentieth century when British and American climbers of leisure found themselves hampered by the difficulties of travel through the Canadian wilderness. Learn about the European immigrants of the 1950s who pushed the limits on the rock walls, and the American superstars who led the search for frightening new routes on the big north faces. Be there when British expatriates pioneer an exciting new trend in world mountaineering-waterfall ice climbing. Witness the popular growth of sport climbing, both on the crags and in the gyms. Finally, enjoy the story of home-grown climbers. Initially slow to take up the challenge, both at home and overseas, they are now leaders in the climbing world.

Fearless on Everest: The Quest for Sandy Irvine


Julie Summers - 2000
    These two names have been inextricably joined since the two climbers disappeared on Mount Everest more than 75 years ago. Could they have been the first to reach the summit of the world's highest mountains-some 30 years earlier than Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay? Mallory's story has been well chronicled, but Irvine has always been overshadowed by his more famous climbing partner and little has been written about him. Who was he? Why was he invited by the British Everest Committee to join the 1924 expedition despite his limited mountaineering experience? And why did Mallory, 16 years his senior, select Irvine as his partner for the final assault on the summit? Julie Summers, great niece of Sandy Irvine, has been fascinated since childhood by the story of Uncle Sandy. In May 2000, Julie made an astonishing discovery: a long forgotten and unopened trunk containing Irvine's letters and photographs from Everest. Drawing on these and other material, Julie writes a revealing story of a fearless young adventurer whose life and death linked him with one of the greatest mountaineering legends of all time.

Highpoints of the United States: A Guide to the Fifty State Summits


Don Holmes - 2000
    Some highpoints, such as Mount Mitchell in North Carolina and New Hampshire’s Mount Washington can be reached by automobile on a sightseeing drive. Others such as Colorado’s Mount Elbert or Mount Marcy in New York are accessible as wilderness day hikes. Still others, such as Mount Rainier in Washington or Gannett Peak in Wyoming, are strenuous and risky mountaineering challenges that should be attempted only by experienced climbers. Whatever your level of skill and interest, Highpoints of the United States offers a diverse range of experiences.Arranged alphabetically by state, each listing has a map, photographs, and information on trailhead, main and alternative routes, elevation gain, and conditions. Historical and natural history notes are also included, as are suggestions for specific guidebooks to a region or climb. Appendices include a list of highpoints by region, by elevation, and a personal log for the unashamed "peak-bagger."Whether you’re an armchair hiker or a seasoned climber, interested only in your state’s highest point or all fifty, this book will be an invaluable companion and reference.

Hiking Colorado's Geology


Ralph Lee Hopkins - 2000
    In 50 hikes, you'll see first-hand evidence of the most dramatic geologic events that created and continue to shape the terrain of this beautiful state.You'll benefit, too, from the authors' long experience as guides and lecturers, sharing their passion for the natural world. The guide is easy to use, with each hike headlined with the geologic features profiled. You'll also find an introductory section on geologic principles you'll see on the trail.

Hermann Buhl Climbing Without Compromise


Reinhold Messner - 2000
    One climbs further and further yet never reaches the destination. Perhaps that is what gives it its own particular charm. One is constantly searching for something never to be found." - Hermann Buhl * Co-author Reinhold Messner is himself a legendary climber deeply influenced by Buhl's accomplishments * Draws upon previously unpublished resources and interviews with family and friends * Buhl wrote the classic Nanga Parbat Pilgrimage Hermann Buhl -- the first man to stand atop Nanga Parbat, and legendary for his will to push himself to the last -- was the mountaineer of the 1950s. His account, Nanga Parbat Pilgrimage, has inspired generations of climbers. Yet that classic, shaped and romanticized by a collaborator, does not reveal the man Buhl really was. Now celebrated mountaineer Reinhold Messner and journalist Horst Hofler publish Buhl in his own words, pure and unadorned, in Hermann Buhl: Climbing without Compromise. Drawing text from Buhl's original climbing diaries, journals, and articles written for mountaineering publications of his time, Messner and Hofler present a portrait of the whole man-strong -- willed, creative, and fragile. A loner, rough-edged in his relations with fellow climbers, Buhl took opposition and disagreements heavily to heart. He was demanding as a father, yet he often sang for his young daughters. Though intense and always pushing his limits on the mountain, he displayed a subtle sense of humor in his journals. Climbing without Compromise also reveals Buhl as an astonishingly modern mountaineer. Indeed, Buhl was a pioneer looking to the future. Buhl lived, above all, for and through his climbing, at a time when no one dreamed about making a living through top alpine achievements. The Buhl Crack on the Cima Canali demonstrates his style as a free climber; his ascent of Broad Peak gives us a glimpse of the super-alpinism of the future. Had Hermann Buhl been born 40 years later, writes Messner, he would surely have been one of the leading sport climbers, and a classic mountaineer without equal. But the whirlwind of energy that was Hermann Buhl was not destined to live a long life. When a cornice collapsed beneath him on Chogolisa, Buhl became instead a tragic hero of the 20th century.