Best of
Climbing

2019

The Impossible Climb: Alex Honnold, El Capitan, and the Climbing Life


Mark Synnott - 2019
    When Alex Honnold topped out at 9:28 am on June 3, 2017, having spent fewer than four hours on his historic ascent, the world gave a collective gasp. His friend Tommy Caldwell, who free climbed (with a rope) the nearby Dawn Wall in 2015, called Alex's ascent "the moon landing of free soloing." The New York Times described it as "one of the great athletic feats of any kind, ever." It was "almost unbearable to watch," writes Synnott.This majestic work of personal history delves into a raggedy culture that emerged decades earlier during Yosemite's Golden Age, when pioneering climbers like Royal Robbins and Warren Harding invented the sport that Honnold would turn on its ear. Synnott paints an authentic, wry portrait of climbing history, profiling Yosemite heroes John Bachar, Peter Croft, Dean Potter, and the harlequin tribe of climbers known as the Stonemasters. A veteran of the North Face climbing team and contributor to National Geographic, Synnott weaves in his own amateur and professional experiences with poignant insight and wit. Tensions burst on the mile-high northwest face of Pakistan's Great Trango Tower; photographer/climber Jimmy Chin miraculously persuades an intransigent official in the Borneo jungle to allow Honnold's first foreign expedition, led by Synnott, to continue; armed bandits accost the same trio at the foot of a tower in the Chad desert . . .The Impossible Climb is an emotional drama driven by people exploring the limits of human potential and seeking a perfect, dialed-in dance with nature. They dare beyond the ordinary, but this story of the sublime is really about all of us. Who doesn't need to face down fear and make the most of the time we have?

Crack Climbing: The Definitive Guide


Pete Whittaker - 2019
    An advocate for the sport's aesthetic lines, physicality, and technical know-how, author Pete Whittaker teaches more than sixty Crack School Masterclasses each year and was featured in the popular climbing film Wide Boyz. This detailed and comprehensive guide teaches step-by-step techniques and tips, including for:Jamming (finger, hand, fist, foot, arm, leg, body) Crack types (chimneys, liebacks, underclings, roof cracks) How to safely lead and place protection Efficient positioning and movement Strength recovery while climbing

Hangdog Days: Conflict, Change, and the Race for 5.14


Jeff Smoot - 2019
    This contentious, often entertaining period gave rise to sport climbing, climbing gyms, and competitive climbing--indelibly transforming the sport.Jeff Smoot was one of those brash young climbers, and here he traces the development of traditional climbing “rules,” enforced first through peer pressure, then later through intimidation and sabotage. In the late ’70s, several climbers began introducing new tactics including “hangdogging,” hanging on gear to practice moves, that the old guard considered cheating. As more climbers broke ranks with traditional style, the new gymnastic approach pushed the limits of climbing from 5.12 to 5.13. When French climber Jean-Baptiste Tribout ascended To Bolt or Not to Be, 5.14a, at Smith Rock in 1986, he cracked a barrier many people had considered impenetrable.In his lively, fast-paced history enriched with insightful firsthand experience, Smoot focuses on the climbing achievements of three of the era’s superstars: John Bachar, Todd Skinner, and Alan Watts, while not neglecting the likes of Ray Jardine, Lynn Hill, Mark Hudon, Tony Yaniro, and Peter Croft. He deftly brings to life the characters and events of this raucous, revolutionary time in rock climbing, exploring, as he says, “what happened and why it mattered, not only to me but to the people involved and those who have followed.”

Some Stories: Lessons from the Edge of Business and Sport


Yvon Chouinard - 2019
    

Rock Climbing for the Absolute Beginner: A Complete Guide to Bouldering, Mountaineering, Top-Rope & Trad Climbing- Includes Knot Tying Tutorials


K.J. Moore - 2019
    You catch a glimpse of the distance below.Why are you doing this? Why did you put yourself in this situation?With every move you fight against your mind, every cell in your body is screaming. You finally reach the top.In this inspired instant, you realize that it is not always about the climb itself, but what you learned about yourself on the way up.Rock climbing can be the ultimate work out, not just physically but mentally as well. This sport will test your limits.If you’re exploring the idea of climbing but aren’t sure where to begin, this book is for you. I’ll show you the absolute basics of starting out as a climber. We’ll talk about the different types of climbing (bouldering, top-rope, sport, and traditional) and what to expect with each type.I will tell you all about the lingo and terminology used in this amazing sport and how to communicate with other climbers. Belay commands Climbing commands Descent commands Grading a climb Climbing Etiquette I will also introduce you to the proper gear you’ll need, how to care for it, and how to test it for safety.(Safety is paramount when you’re learning how to climb!) Shoes Harness Chalk and chalk bag Belay device Carabiners Helmet Climbing rope Crashpads Climbing clothing Any climber must learn how to properly tie knots and secure anchors. I will give you an in-depth tutorial about the types of knots that are a must, including step-by-step pictures.I will also address different climbing techniques, also illustrated fully with pictures for your reference. We’ll examine handholds, footholds, and various movements to help you scale the most treacherous terrain.No sport would be complete without a word about proper training. Rock climbing utilizes your entire body, top to bottom. You must condition your muscles and bones when you’re not climbing.This guidebook is FULL of information to get you started in your new climbing adventure. Climbing safety and communication Safely falling Transitioning to outdoor climbs Advancing your climbing skills to go to the next level A word about continuing education Just remember, it’s not about the summit, it’s all about the climb.Be safe and enjoy!

Accidents in North American Climbing 2019


American Alpine Club - 2019
    Each year, Accidents reports on the year's most significant and educational climbing accidents. In each case, experts analyze what went wrong, helping climbers prevent or survive similar incidents in the future. The 2019 Accidents analyzes more than 100 incidents from the U.S., Canada, and Mexico, with dozens of photographs and illustrations. The Know the Ropes section describes new ways to think about planning for climbs and managing risks. Danger Zones analyzes accidents on Mt. Washington in Oregon, helping climbers and skiers plan safer days out on similar mountains everywhere. Essentials stories and other sidebars teach critical climbing and first-aid skills.

Paul Preuss: Lord of the Abyss: Life and Death at the Birth of Free-Climbing


David Smart - 2019
    Even the most trenchant traditionalists remain unsure about whether to add him to their pantheon or dismiss him as at worst a lunatic or at best an indelicate subject better left ignored.

The Sharp End of Life: A Mother's Story


Dierdre Wolownick - 2019
    Teacher and musician. Marathoner and rock climber. At 66, Dierdre Wolownick became the oldest woman to climb El Capitan in Yosemite--and in The Sharp End of Life: A Mother's Story, she shares her intimate journey, revealing how her climbing achievement reflects a broader story of courage and persistence.Dierdre grew up under the watchful eyes of a domineering mother and realized early on that her parents' plans for her future weren't what she wanted for herself. Later, what seemed like a storybook romance brought escape, with new experiences and eye-opening travel, but she quickly discovered that her husband was not the happy-go-lucky man he had first appeared. Adapting as best she could, Dierdre juggled work and raising two young children, encouraging them to be fearlessly confident. She noted with delight how her "little lady" Stasia took it upon herself to look out for her baby brother, and watched in amazement as Alex started climbing practically before he could crawl.After years of struggle in her marriage and her ultimate divorce, Dierdre found inspiration in her now-adult children's passions, as well as new depths within herself. At Stasia's urging, she took up running at age 54 and soon completed several marathons. Then at age 58, Alex led her on her first rock climbs. A world of friendship and support suddenly opened up to her within the climbing "tribe," culminating in her record-setting ascent of El Cap with her son.From confused young wife and busy but lonely mother to confident middle-aged athlete, Dierdre brings the reader along as she finds new strength, happiness, and community in the outdoors--and a life of learning, acceptance, and spirit.