It is a vicarious experience to read about the culinary wonders of the notable establishments of another era that have become the last epicurean haven in this materialistic, mechanized world of fastfood chains and frozenfood dinners. Mr. Wechsberg reaches back to the twilight days of the Habsburg monarchy, when those splendid monuments to the haute cuisine in central Europe, Meissl and Schadn of Vienna and Gundel's of Budapest, were in their prime.

    But Zuni's appeal goes beyond recipes. Harold McGee concludes, "What makes The Zuni Café Cookbook a real treasure is the voice of Zuni's Judy Rodgers," whose book "repeatedly sheds a fresh and revealing light on ingredients and dishes, and even on the nature of cooking itself." Deborah Madison (Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone) says the introduction alone "should be required reading for every person who might cook something someday."

    Now Leslie Kaul, the stores' executive chef, along with the owners, offer The Daily Soup Cookbook, a collection of 200 favorite recipes for soups, stews, and stocks. These straightforward formulas, drawn from a globe-spanning repertoire, will please cooks of all kinds, from beginners to the accomplished.Organized by ingredients such as vegetables, beans, grains, and fruit, the recipes include old favorites like French Onion and Chicken Matzoh Ball soups, as well as less familiar brews such as Jamaican Pumpkin soup, Shrimp and Scallop Seviche, and Poblano Corn Chowder. In addition to a chapter devoted to chilis--Braised Pork Chili with Black Beans and Corn is a particular winner--the authors provide notes on ingredients and techniques, historical asides, and a series of tongue-in-cheek sidebars, offering, for example, the Periodic Table of Soups and Baby Names for the New Millennium ("Art E. Choke" is one).If these digressions aren't always apt, there are always the soups, with several pièce de résistance examples--Peking Duck; Lamb, Artichoke, and Rosemary Stew; and Saffron Mussel soup--guaranteed to please. A final section on stocks provides basic soup building-block information, and Things to Do with Leftover Soups offers next-day options, should any of the delicious bowls not be devoured instantly. --Arthur Boehm

    At a time when money worries are front-page news, Britain's most trusted cook, Delia Smith, is once again at hand with a collection of recipes that are cost-cutting and easy to prepare.